![]() I used a jack to support the frame when I removed the bolt for swinging the backing plate out of the way. There is a backing plate that can be moved to the side and the main frame bolt put back in. I used the air impact on these just to loosen them, but leave them in for now. Tie up the gear box so it does not drop down when the subframe is lowered. The other two are 14 mm from above only on the passenger side. The two bolts ends (17 mm) from below on the gear housing will turn and will require connecting a 14 mm from above behind the engine with a 24” extension and swivel. Some of the nuts are welded to the rack frame and will break loose. Remove the 4 bolts connecting the rack and pinion to the sub frame. Remove the plastic splash shield from the bottom across the front covering the radiator area.ġ3. Detach the front of the wheel well plastic liners and pull them back to the back side of the hubs. You can remove the small socket joint at the top of the link.ġ2. Don’t just pull it out without prying it first about an inch with a screw driver between the shaft end and the transmission.ġ1. When you to remove the ball joint and pull the axle out, you need to use a screw driver and pry the spline out of the transmission. Ingersol Rand does about 400 ft lbs torque, which is needed for these. Impact wrenches are hard to find, but I was able to rent one locally for $15/day. You can rent the sockets at some auto stores. You need to use an impact socket for this to work, not a regular socket. The best way for this is a 36mm impact socket and air impact wrench. The ball joint is removed either with a joint tool, or I used some wedges and pried it off the lower arm after some hammering on the wedges and the back of the tapered hole in the arm.Īxle removal: Crack the axle nut loose. (Not sure this will be easy on the install, if not, then detach bearing support for the intermediate shaft). It was pulled out when the transmission was pulled. In my case, I actually left the passenger side ball joint on and had the intermediation shaft (connecting to the axle shaft) was left on. You remove the driver side ball joint and pull the axle out from the transmission. Remove the axles (a few ways to do this) You don't actually have to remove it from the hub to get the transmission out. (below) Remove the shifter cable cover and shifter cable.ġ0. Throttle cable to carburetor does not need to be detached, pull out cable from clamps so it has plenty of room to stretch out.ĩ. Disconnect tranny cooling lines connecting to the radiator. Drain the transmission oil and reinstall plug (below)ħ. Disconnect a wiring harness block attached to the top of the transmission.Ħ. Pull off all of the other sensors attached to the tranny (I think mine had 10, on the back there is one that has 3 connections only one of the three are used) (from above and below). Remove the starter (I left the started connected and just tied it to the radiator)Ĥ. Remove the intake (disconnect suction lines and wires mostly to the intake, but some to the aluminum intake manifold that are just in the way.ģ. Unhook the battery, remove battery and battery tray.Ģ. Four of the five mounts need disconnected and the engine/transmissions needs good support. One other one just broke off.Ĭhain/straps to secure engine transmission. ![]() I used a cut off wheel on one, the other I drilled out with a series of bits so I could snap off the nut. Tools to fix any broken, spun, or rounded off nuts/bolts. Girder/joist to build a support over the engine. ![]() The exhaust would normally be removed to make this easyer, but it could also be left on and the subframe lays on the pipe allowing just enough room to remove the trans.ģ6mm socket (if you plan to pull the axle nut)ģ/8 and ½ drive sockets, racket and extensions The subframe does not go any lower when the exhaust pipe is attached. was about 1" below the body frame and 1" above the subframe. would be low enough to come out on the driver side, but the frame would be low enough that the trans. Was not sure I could get clearance so the trans. The result was, the subframe was removed, but stayed under the car and hung over the exhaust. The one thing I wanted to try to avoid was removing the exhaust pipe from the manifold. ![]() With this age, the bolts can be really seized up and break. I also looked into ways to reduce the amount of bolts removed. So I wrote up the procedure for the 2000. In looking through other post, internet, and a book on the procedures, I found there was more inforamtion needed. I have done this at a much younger age, which was about 25 yrs ago. This one is beyond the coverage period and its hard to pay for the replacement when the car value is probably less than the cost of the trans. We were able to get it covered in the first two replacements. 2000 Ody, 208,000 miles, transmission replaced twice, and not needs replaced again.
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